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‘The drive between Lake Louise and Jasper is the more beautiful drive in the world’. I heard this mantra so often I half expected a flash mob to break out in downtown Banff to drive the point home. It seemed every person I mentioned our trip itinerary to uttered this definitive proclamation. I’ve now driven it and am here to say; I get it.
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The approximately three hour drive from Lake Louise to Jasper takes on several landscape changes. One could not normally imagine within a fairly short distance that the mountain form can vary so. Every inch of this drive presents a humbling exterior reminding the spectator that regardless of what beauty one has witnessed in the world, they’ve not seen it all without gazing upon the splendor of this drive.
Despite wishing to arrive rapidly into Jasper, our last Canadian destination, the impulse to pull off the road to soak in the views got the best of us. Foremost for me were the lakes and once again, their sublime color. Created by minerals from the feeding glaciers, the water is an entrancing tropical aquamarine blue. I stopped at every pull out where I could spot even a glimmer of the color not being able to get enough. As mentioned in my article about Lake Louise, these photos are not retouched, altered, filtered or saturated. This is what it looks like. Unbelievable.
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Peyto Lake, a must stop. A short, easy walk from the parking lot (which we did in flip flops) one comes upon this spectacular sight. Peyto Lake (above) is fed by glacial run off from a high above the lake (below).
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As one winds down the thoroughfare toward Jasper, the mountains take different forms from prehistorically jagged, sporting glaciers slowly shaping the solid rock to new forms and flatirons making those in Boulder pale by comparison. The grandeur tracking the highway is unrelenting and constantly amazing.
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One of the region’s highlights is a trip to the Columbia Icefields. The icefield is a living glacier on which one can take a trip on monster truck wheeled vehicles to stand on the ice itself. The icefields appear to be a frozen waterfall snaking down the mountain. It is a thousand feet deep, taller than the Eiffel Tower. It has been formed by the weight of the top snow, slowly compressing the lower snow into ice and robbing it of oxygen giving it an ice blue color (the only color that will refract through the ice when the sun shines on it). It is also a triple continental divide feeding into the Atlantic, Pacific and Arctic Oceans. |
Our final stay in Canada was at the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge. Though not bearing the grace and stature of the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel or the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, this rustic complex is steeped in history of its own, sporting a warm, summer encampment feel architecturally. The hotel began in 1915 originally as a large tent camp catering to railway travelers. In 1922 the first rustic cabins were erected opening the official Jasper Park Lodge. The lodge’s golf course was developed in the 1920’s by master golf course architect, Stanley Thompson. Also in the 1920’s brought the start of the draw of the lodge for movie stars, movie making and royalty. Photos of various royal figures hang in the hall of the lodge’s main building, the most recent of which was Queen Elizabeth in 2005. The lodge is comprised of a central building where guests can find the onsite restaurants as well as shops downstairs. Small duplex cabins flank the main building for guest sleeping quarters. It’s a bit of a hybrid allowing guests to feel on their own yet with dining and conveniences a short walk away.
As with the other historic high profile hotels in this region, tragedy has struck over the years, causing rebuilding and reforming the foundation of the original lodge. Resilience has shone with subtle updates designed to preserve the ambiance of the original experience with more modern convenience. This lodge has a very game-lodge-meets-lake-summer complex feel to it. Hugging the teal shores of Lac Beauvert (translated ‘Beautiful Green Lake’), I could picture moving in for the summer and adopting a lazy pace. Our personal travel plans were altered by our stay here. Somehow the list of ‘must do’s’ gave way to no plans, active relaxing, letting the days unfold with what they would.
The grounds of the lodge are beautiful with historic ambiance of a bygone era of travel and yet not outdated in the least. A prominent log cabin boat house offers the choice of paddle boats, canoes or kayaks as a means to explore the lake. Colorful Adirondack chairs dot the sprawling expanse of lawn with places to perch and ponder. Small enclosed docks a top the water offer a chance to sit and gaze into the completely clear water to see what may reside within the lake.
The Emerald Lounge is the lodge’s bar offering a list of custom cocktails unique to the lodge as well as more casual food options. One aspect of the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge dining I loved is that they source from local farms. Alberta is known for quality meat and the hotel carries local beef and bison in addition to more exotic local meats offered in one of their four onsite restaurants. Produce and eggs are also brought in from local farms making for a more indigenous spin to their food.
When perusing the list of unique cocktails one in particular caught my eye and was verified by our server as a most popular selection: Pomegranate Cucumber Mojito. The last afternoon sun was just dipping below the patio balcony radiating us with the direct mountain sun. The cocktail sounded in writing to be flavorful, refreshing and thirst quenching. Something unique, which is always on my libations quest list. This cocktail delivers and I’ll be making it at home with fond memories of a beautiful, lazy stay at this lake compound.
POMEGRANATE CUCUMBER MOJITO
Ingredients:
· 4 mint leaves
· 2 slices peeled English cucumber
· 1 ounce Bacardi White rum
· ¾ ounce freshly squeezed lime juice
· ¾ ounce simple syrup
· ¾ cup pomegranate juice
· Club soda to fill
· Garnish: mint leaves and English cucumber slice
In a shaker, muddle the mint and cucumber. Add rum, lime juice, simple syrup and pomegranate juice. Shake with ice. Strain into a high ball glass over ice. Fill with club soda. Garnish with cucumber slice and mint leaves.
Lodging Tip: Should you want to try any of the Fairmont Canadian hotels I’ve written about I highly suggest investigating rates on travel consolidator websites like Travelocity or Expedia. We found rates 20% discounted by selecting a no-cancellation reservation. Additionally before you travel join the Fairmont’s Presidents Club. It is no cost but members enjoy a separated, expedited check in line, free newspaper delivered to the room and free internet service (which can run up to $18/day). It’s a tiered plan so benefits accumulate with more hotel stays.
All That I'm Eating says
What a stunning place, I can't believe how many different landscapes you can get in one place! That water colour is amazing. I'd love to try drinking some of the water and would probably use my hands too as I'm bound to forget a bottle. The mojito sounds lovely too, what a great background to sip it against.
Lea Ann (Cooking on the Ranch) says
I just can-NOT believe the color of that water. The lakes not the mojito ha ha. I'd love to get up there one of these days. What a treat to see that Grizzly. We're such outdoors people, I can't believe I've never even seen a bear here in Colorado. And knock on wood that I'll be in the car when I do see one. 🙂
Toni @ Boulder Locavore says
I (as you could tell) also was completely struck by the water color. I truly don't recall seeing it elsewhere with exception of the tropics. It was spectacular. I too was surprised that it's a realatively short drive from us; less than 24 hours. So many fun outdoor things to do there too! You'd love it Lea Ann.
Chef Dennis says
What a beautiful park! I do have to get up to that part of the world one day, but until then thank you for taking us with you on your vacation!
Toni @ Boulder Locavore says
I must admit I really did not imagine what we found there. Assuming the Rocky Mountains could not be THAT different going northward, did I get a huge and welcome schooling. It was the type of place I could just sit quietly and stare at every stop.
The Mom Chef says
My favorite picture is the one of the water cutting through the glacier. Black exhaust streaks aside, the color is amazing. I'd have loved to have scooped my hands into it like you did. Thank you for sharing the trip with us. I've looked through the photos multiple times and am in awe of the grandeur and splendor you drove through. Wow.
The mojito ain't so bad either. 🙂
Toni @ Boulder Locavore says
I agree. The tainted snow detracts some but in person I was completely focused on the color. The water is so pure. I think they said it's 700 years old and some claim a fountain of youth. The mojito was great! Especially in the heat.
A SPICY PERSPECTIVE says
Oh MY GOODNESS! I feel like I was there by reading your post. Loved it!
Toni @ Boulder Locavore says
Thank you Sommer! The unbridled enthusiasm of your comments always makes me laugh!
Boy With A Bike says
I cannot tell you how much I have enjoyed your trio of recent posts about the trip to the Canadian Rockies. Beautiful pictures, great stories and great boozie suggestions. Very fun to read!!
Thanks for allowing us to share. It is now bubbling up on our Bucket List (don’t really have one but my urgency to visit is ramped up).
Toni @ Boulder Locavore says
I'm so glad! It is a beautiful area with so many things to see and enjoy. I hope you'll have the chance to visit.
Kitchen Riffs says
What a great trip! Such gorgeous scenery – I'm jealous! And the Pomegranate Cucumber Mojito sounds particularly tasty. Love all the pictures, but my favorite is the one of the red and yellow chairs – so striking!
Toni @ Boulder Locavore says
Thank you! It was a great trip; looking back I wish we had more time in each location. All the cocktails were great ones that I'll make at home with fond memories of this beautiful place!
Meeling says
Yum!! That looks and sounds delicious!
Isn't that one of the most beautiful places around? I've had the privilege to visit before – loved it!
Toni @ Boulder Locavore says
It IS one of the most beautiful places around, I agree! I did not imagine the Rocky Mountains could look so different. Dramatic and beautiful.